When the Covid-19 cessation of movement in and out of Nairobi was lifted, I got together with three photographer friends – Mumbi, Mutua and Josh -and headed to the land of gentle giants for a four-day, three-night camping trip.

This is one trip I’d been looking forward to since January 2020. I was last in Amboseli National Park in February 2014. A lot had happened in the long six years since, including me getting better at photography and storytelling.

So on Monday 13th July, we adiosed Nairobi and pointed our Subarus towards Kilimanjaro’s forecourt.

Our first stop was at Kalekye’s in Emali for fruits and vegetables that were to be our food and snacks for the next four days. Kalekye’s has become a regular stop for trips on this side of Nairobi.

The standard welcoming snack at Kalekye’s. The juice drips to the elbows!

After an early lunch in Kimana, we got to Amboseli’s Kimana Gate at about 12.30pm and after the payment formalities, we pitched tent at the co-named KWS Campsite and proceeded for our first game drive at around 3pm.

Elephants, elephants and more elephants…

Heading towards the marshes, we were concerned we might have chosen to visit at the wrong time. Being a migratory park, it is possible to come to Amboseli and spot only one elephant like Josh did a couple of years ago.

So it was quite a relief when we spotted black mounds that looked like bushes in the horizon and upon closer inspection, they transformed into herds upon herds of elephants!

We had been favoured to find these gentle giants in their hundreds, enjoying the lush Amboseli vegetation to the delight of our eyes and cameras.

We also got to see elephants caught in some sort of ‘entanglement’.

Elephant Attack!

The highlight for our first day came around 1730hrs as we were casually taking photos of the elephants. The savannah calmness was interrupted by the sound of hooting as two cars which appeared to be driving through the Park sped past us in clear disregard for the Park rules on noise and speed.

We didn’t realise how much this agitated the elephants until the matriarch expressed her disgust in a very intimidating way.

Watch the video below for the full story.

It was a close shave that could have ended a very different way for Mumbi and Mutua who were in the Outback above.

On the way back to camp, Kibo peeped above the clouds and Kilimanjaro bared her snow-capped peak for a few minutes. I was happy to capture the signature Amboseli image above.

Around the campfire that evening, we recalled the elephant attack and thanked God we were alive and able to sleep peacefully, a billion stars staring down upon us.

The second day started early. We left KWS’s Kimana Campsite before sun up with the hopes of capturing a glorious sunrise.

Being Kenya’s winter season, cloud cover is usually heavy throughout the day so our chances were slim. We still headed out in faith and we were rewarded with the sight below.

Amboseli is More than Elephants

We explored a different side of the Park and got to capture more of the wildlife that call Amboseli home.

Birdlife in Amboseli

There are hundreds of bird species in Amboseli, living in perfect harmony with elephants and other wildlife. Here are some I got to capture.

I don’t know how he’s doing on his KPIs.

With the seasonal Lake Amboseli in a flood that has seen it swallow roads and causeways, water birds are in abundance in Amboseli.

At camp, we had the regular campsite tweeters.

Then there was this hornbill which made a meal of a locust. We should have sent a team of Zazus to deal with the locust invasion. 😉

Amboseli Lodge (Permanently Closed)

I can’t find any leads as to why this lodge – across the road from Ol Tukai -closed but it appears that nature and time have done a good number on what was a flourishing and popular tourist spot in Amboseli.

It should make a great movie set or photography location.

I love how communication masts have been designed like trees, to blend in with the environment. I’ve seen this done in Masai Mara as well.

The Maasai of Amboseli

It’s not only about elephants in Amboseli. Here are other greats who call this home. We visited their Manyatta not far from the border with Tanzania for a glimpse of their way of life, to make friends and portraits.

Being Covid-19 times, we kept our face masks on at all times. One of the elders in this Manyatta told us the herbs and traditional medicines they take have kept the coronavirus at bay.

It was the evening hour so we got to see the young ladies milking goats and drinking the milk straight from the milking cups.

Finally, More Elephants

It’s what Amboseli is famous for and there was no getting away from them. Not that we wanted to. It’s quite an experience seeing them up close. So massive yet so gentle.

Africa you were a sleeping giant woken by the kiss of liberty… Remember the song?

After four days and three nights camping in Amboseli, we broke camp and headed back to Nairobi, eyes and hearts set on this year’s Migration in Masai Mara.

See you then.