They can weigh up to 30 tons but for a split second, they break free from gravity… leap out of the water… catch air… and become… weightless!

Humpback whales were nowhere in my bucket list of animals I hoped to see, especially in Kenya. But when I was asked if I could join a team from Kenya Tourism Board headed to Watamu to witness the whale migration, I told them “I’ve always wanted to see whales! They are my most favourite sea mammal.”

To back my claims, I did my research and found out that humpback whales migrate to the Kenyan Coast from Antarctica between July and September to breed and nurture their young. Our warm tropical waters are one of 12 migratory routes humpbacks use worldwide, moving from cold polar waters towards the equator where it’s warmer and predators seeking to make an easy meal of their young are fewer. This migration coincides with the wildebeest migration in Masai Mara. On land, the animals cover around 1,500kms; in the ocean, the whales swim around 5,000kms, making this a #TwinMigration.

Fast forward a couple of weeks later and last Sunday, I found myself in an air-conditioned Noah headed to Watamu from Malindi International Airport. In the short 30-minute drive, I somehow managed to sink into a nap and in my dream, I was the main act in the Watamu Marine Acrobatic Show, riding two humpbacks across Mida Creek, holding on to their backs with ropes made of sea weed, makuti hat, luminous bermuda shorts, carved abs and crocs to complete the show-stopper look. We leapt over a dug out canoe, did a 360, and woke up after we hit a speed bump on the road to Temple Point Resort, where I’d been booked for two nights alongside Josh Kisamwa and Marion Mithamo.

Monday morning, we were back on the same road, whale watching on our minds. Since our expedition was to be in the afternoon, Watamu Marine Association advised us to visit some of the other attractions that Watamu has.

Our first stop was Eco World, where they’re providing a local solution to a global problem.

Here, they collect marine waste from Watamu beaches and recyclable waste from hotels nearby and recycle it into crafts and construction materials.

Between one and two tons of waste is collected every week and sorted on site.

Chikuchi and Mohamed are part of the team that does the waste sorting.

Separating the waste helps identify what will be turned into art, and what will be used as construction material.

We met Matilda pouring and packing sand into plastic water bottles that were to be turned into construction ‘bricks’.

After being filled with sand, the bottles are cut down to size…

…and stacked, ready for use.

I didn’t know glass can be used in construction but Eco World showed me how.

It was my first time seeing a tree wearing slippers.

Why many slippers? Because it is several feet! (Aw man… Get me a Netflx special already!)

Other slippers are turned into art.

First they are cut to the right size…

…shaped and sanded…

…and turned into beautiful jewellery.

Members of Sauti ya Wanawake like Wahito make the jewellery and crafts at Eco World. Started in 2000, the group of 30 use the sale proceeds to fund community projects like counselling school dropouts and mediating domestic conflict cases.

Myra Alego is the project coordinator at Eco World.

Some of the crafts available for sale at the Eco World Gift Shop.

Seeing all these sea animal crafts made us hungry, so we went to Crab Shack for an early lunch.

Mangrove seedlings.

Because wading in muddy waters isn’t for everyone, we used a board walk to get to Crab Shack. The cages on the left are used to rear crabs which are sold to restaurants in Watamu.

These crab samosas were legit!

For the main course, I had fish, proper Swahili rice and a fresh salad.

After lunch, it was time for the main reason that brought us to Watamu and I believe the reason you clicked on the link that brought you here.

We got into the boat provided by Hemingways Watamu and sailed towards India.

We spotted these fishermen heading back to shore. The sea wasn’t calm but they were.

A few miles on our journey to where samosas were invented, we spotted dolphins swimming a few metres from our boat. On any other day, I’d be very excited to see them – but not today.

After a few more minutes of whale searching, they started showing up.

Some were ahead, some behind, to the left… it was hard to tell where one would leap out of the water and breach. The sea was choppy, we rocked quite a bit and lunch threatened to leave my body the same way it came in. To maintain balance, I removed my slippers, and with my toes gripping the floor, held onto anything fixed with one hand, while the other was left to do the zooming, composing and clicking in whatever direction a whale decided to show up. I’ve never had to do so much to get a good photo.

One whale was just too fast for me – or I was too slow.

Another was just too far.

Some whales breached the opposite side of where I was looking and only caught them through the corner of my eye.

Some times I had the shot properly composed in anticipation of a breach – and a whale would actually breach – only for me to loose my balance in the rocking boat and shoot images like the three above.

On about my tenth attempt at getting a good shot, I shot the series below.

This is called the hug.

This was quite an unforgettable experience.

The crew from Watamu Marine and Kenya Tourism Board.

As I got back into the air conditioned Noah, I considered myself privileged to have witnessed these magnificent mammals enjoying the Kenyan Coast just like I was.

As the sun made way for the evening, I took in the views of Mida Creek, where maybe one day, I’ll be the star of the Watamu Marine Acrobatic Show.

Temple Point Resort, Watamu.

Many thanks to Kenya Tourism Board, Watamu Marine Association and Hemingways for making this expedition possible.

Plan to catch the whale migration off the Kenyan Coast between July and September. You can spot the whales anywhere between Kisite Marine Park and Lamu, but Watamu appears to be the choice destination to do so.