documentary travel

Kangemi’s Routemaster

In the last couple of months, there’s been a lot of talk about phasing out 14-seater matatus in favour of higher capacity buses. This is in an effort to decongest Nairobi’s streets and hopefully have more people preferring public over private transport. But will 35 or 50 seater buses solve the problem? Why not have buses with higher capacity?

When Nairobi’s population was a fraction of what it was currently, we had double decker buses that for a reason unknown to me stopped plying Nairobi streets. Stagecoach briefly reintroduced them in the 1990s before the company went belly up and the buses left our streets.

Earlier this week, while in Kangemi, I spotted a Routemaster, the original double decker bus and having my camera with me, I just had to document this beauty.

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It’s current owner bought it several years ago as a memorabilia. It didn’t even have an engine when he bought it and had to be towed to where it sits today. While other fathers built swings and see-saws in their back yards, this father bought his children a bus they could play in.

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Lower deck.

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Upper deck. The headroom isn’t too great up here. I had to stoop a bit to move around. I don’t think that was a problem though since the only time one stood was when boarding and alighting.

A joke was told about passengers on the No. 237 Stagecoach double decker buses that plied the Nairobi – Thika route: they preferred to travel in the upper deck because they believed they’d get to their destination faster than those in the lower deck.

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Steps leading to the lower deck.

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The panel above the driver’s cabin was used to display the route the bus was plying.

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I believe the typography in Kenya’s old number plates was a thousand times better than what we have today.

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Speed limits were lower than today’s 80.

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The Routemaster’s tyres will tell you where it’s been. This one is still inflated…

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…with tread that is the envy of many PSVs running our roads.

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This one has had it’s fair share of life.

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Structurally, the Routemaster is sound, despite the rust and loose panels. A couple of weeks of extra loving and it would make a comeback on our roads, most likely as a tour bus.

  1. Jesse

    April 22, 2015 at 10:55 am

    As always, this is an amazing article Mwarv. After reading this piece, I now totally understand what they meant by there is nothing new under the sun. The solutions to most of our transport problems (such as traffic) have always been with us all this time

  2. muthama

    April 22, 2015 at 7:28 pm

    Lovely piece.I had the pleasure of playing this bus when I was younger.And the huge Avocado tree beside it.Had the sweetest of fruit.ah…Nostalgia

  3. Peter Ng'ang'a

    April 23, 2015 at 4:38 pm

    I have the pleasure of dining and winning in this particular Routemaster. Mzee Wothiru wa Mukundi, the owner, invited me many a time in the late 80’s and early 90’s to join his family on Sundays for lunch. It was a treat I always looked forward to. Mr. Mukundi has been around for many years. He has wonderful stories from the past to tell. He is rememberd for his barber shop at Kangemi too , where he used a ticketing system to organize his clients. ( long before the banks and hospitals in Kenya used the system ) He shaved a given number of heads per day, but clients would still sat on the que to get a early number for the following day. Their motivation was the interesting stories from Mzee Mukundi.

    How I miss the Routemaster .

    1. Alom

      December 26, 2017 at 7:49 am

      Did they serve meals in the bus while it sat in their back yard? That must have been amazing

  4. Lucy Waithaka

    April 24, 2015 at 1:56 am

    It was my favourite play childhood joint with the Wothirus.It made my Saturday and Sunday afternoons.

  5. Peter Ng'ang'a

    September 30, 2015 at 5:04 pm

    Mr. Wothiru wa Mukundi, the legendary owner of the Routemaster is no longer with us. He passes on earlier this week. May he rest in peace.

  6. wainoe

    June 11, 2016 at 12:54 am

    Its an honor to be the owners grandchild. This bus holds a lot of sweet memories

    1. Lilian

      June 12, 2016 at 8:34 am

      Are you by any chance Muthoni’s niece? I would like to get in touch with her. She was a childhood friend. And we played in this bus and spent a lot of time in your grand fathers barbershop.

      1. marylyne muthoni

        June 15, 2016 at 12:22 pm

        Lilian, hi am here ive been serching for you.

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